My favourite past style has to be 1920's flappers. The tassled dresses swinging to the sound of music, amazing! My grandma gave me a black 1920's dress which she got from her mother, I have worn it once and it felt so amazing to be wearing something that was decades older than myself, it was truly special.
The 1920s is also known as the Jazz era. With the music industry just beginning the likes of Louis Armstrong and Duke Ellington were hugely popular. Art changed with the start of the Art Deco influence. This was seen through stain glass windows all the way to architecture. Famous architects include Frank Lloyd Wright and the design company Bauhaus who structured buildings and interiors with linear lines. The Art Deco influences gave clear inspiration to twenties fashion: the structured lines, squares and pyramid shapes from the architecture can be clearly identified in the style of the short, drop shouldered dresses popular for the period.
The 1930's were another fashion fuelled decade. The introduction of shaped silhouettes which showed a womans curves was a trend then, and today. Curves in 2016 are a hot trend, with many women prefering to be curvy and toned as opposed to thin.
There was a return to lady-like glamour in the Thirties. Dresses were designed to show off the curves of women. The clothes accentuated the waist, but not in an extreme way like the corset wearing years of previous decades. Eveningwear was more glamorous, taking inspiration from the film stars. Lower backs were exposed showing skin in a sexy but sophisticated way. There was a business like influence with two piece outfits being worn. Simple blouses and wrap skirts were seen with V-neck cardigans or jackets.
In the 1950s the world had to deal with the post war destruction and rebuilding of architecture from the German bombing. In Britain the re-election of Winston Churchill resulted in the abolition of food rationing and eventually the lifting of rationing on clothing and fabrics. The end of the war saw a resurgence in Haute Couture with Christian Dior and Cristóbal Balenciaga rebelling from the restricted austerity styles. The Fifties also saw changes in family life – women turned back into housekeepers and the glamorous Fifties housewife was born.
Art and Culture With the idea of rebuilding communities, lighter, happier entertainment was produced. Musicals including Guys and Dolls and films like Breathless were inspired by the new era of the Fifties. Sunset Boulevard was also a celebrated film noir involving a former silent movie star fading away into Hollywood. An innovation in new textiles and technologies appeared during the Fifties with new synthetic and easy-care fabrics being developed. This fitted in with the new suburban lifestyle of the Fifties. Acrylic, spandex, polyester and triacetate were introduced in the Fifties along with nylon, orlon and dacron which could retain heat set pleats after washing.
The Fifties saw a return to femininity. The British fashion industry started to develop moving away from the U.S Styles and fabrics were being influenced by British designers who were celebrating the female hourglass figure. More silhouettes were emerging with Dior using A-line styles and princess style dresses.
Everyone wanted to be apart of the swinging sixties. My Grandma talks about this era all the time and always comments on clothing that reflects the 60's era. The 60's were crammed with different styles, different social groups meant a different clothing style, so we had the hippies, the mods, rockers and space age.
The Sixties was a decade of huge fashion, music and social change. Conventions were challenged and old attitudes faded. The voting age dropped to 18, mini skirts became the norm and pop music blared from every teenager’s radio. People had more money and a disposable income than before and now had the time to enjoy it. The Sixties created great optimism and will always be remembered as a time of freedom, social change and fun!
Art and Culture
A variety of music, art and photographers influenced the various fashions and social groups of the Sixties. Andy Warhol was the best known figure to emerge from the 1960’s pop art movement. He was a painter, print maker and film maker, and during the Sixties designed a ‘High Fashion’ paper dress covered with multiple images of his iconic Campbell’s tomatoes soup can. Op Art was another style of art that created a fashion craze during the Sixties. Optically distorted geometric patterns in black and white were produced to create a whole range of movements on the surface. When applied to fabric it created a bold and stylish look.
Photographers including David Bailey, Brian Duffy and Terence Donovan helped create the iconic Swinging Sixties look. These three photographers all shot for Vogue and captured some of the most iconic people from the Sixties including Michael Caine, The Beatles, Mick Jagger, Twiggy andAudrey Hepburn. The music of the Sixties is still hugely popular. Musicians including: The Beatles, The Rolling Stones, The Kinks, Led Zeppelin, Pink Floyd, Jimi Hendrix, Dusty Springfield, Cilla Black and The Supremes dominated the Sixties sounds. There were copied and idolized by the masses.
Another style that has made its comeback, a large floppy hat. Popular in the 1970's. The oversized jumpsuit is also a hot trend this season! evolution!
The mini skirt wasn’t as essential for the Seventies style, hot pants had taken. However, women weren’t restricted to just a short length style for their skirts. There were also maxi skirts, flared trousers, high waist pants and halter neck cat suits. The hippie styles were still flowing over from the sixties with frayed clothing and tie dye shirts still popular. When mini dresses were worn they were paired with maxi styled coats combining the sixties style with the new seventies look. However in addition to the mini and maxi skirt, mid calf length called midis were worn. Offering women the choice of all three lengths. There was Studio 54 inspired clothing with long floaty fabrics with batwing sleeves which were a complete contrast to the tight fitting hot pants worn. Glam rock was inspiring some trends with women wearing high waisted, flared satin trousers or denims. Sequin, rhinestones and ostrich-feather boas were draped over shoulders or on turbans. Kaftans and kimonos were also popular due to the Hippie style from the Sixties. Denim developed during the Seventies. The styles worn were tight at the top and then flared at the bottom. Levi jeans became hugely popular for both men and women during the seventies. It was important for them to be skin tight at the top. Skinny jeans started to be worn with women’s stretch denim now being available on the High Street with embroidered patterns being popular embellishments. The jersey wrap dress was designed by Diane von Furstenberg in 1971 and became incredibly fashionable; it could be worn to work, discos and nightclubs as the flattering cut of the dress suited many different figures. Peasant style clothing inspired by the 17th century influenced the Seventies, seen in blouses with lace and off the shoulder necklines. Yves Saint Laurentbacked the peasant style in 1976 with skirts gathered into tiers and shoulder lines dropping. Floral patterns and prints were fashionable with this trend especially when worn with the peasant style skirt. The leotard started its growing popularity mid seventies as a layered style became popular. The long sleeved leotard was worn to add colour and texture to the body. It also became a staple with the disco scene were the ease of movement and flexibility it gave you was needed.
2000 to present saw the return of some of the decades most iconic styles. Modern, clean cut yet classic hybrids started to appear on the runways and in stores and the turn of the century for me is where women finally started being 100% into fashion.
The beginning of the decade was hit with tragedy in 2001 with the September 11th terrorist attacks on the Twin Towers in New York. With New York fashion week mid flow, the rest of the shows were cancelled. Six months later, the New York crowd proved it was business as usual, but in a more gentle and delicate way. In 2003 the United States, United Kingdom, Australia and Canada invaded Afghanistan to find al-Qaeda mastermind Osama bin Laden, which followed the United States, United Kingdom, Australia and Poland invading Iraq under false claims of weapons of mass destruction. The decade saw natural disasters, social media spreading via the internet and a more educated consumer. Mass market brands were copying replicas from the designer catwalk and celebrity collaborations with middle market stores were everywhere. Vintage was ‘in’ and mixing designer garments with high street and vintage saw a focus on intelligent dressing.The first half of the decade saw a revival of the Ugg boot first seen on Pamela Anderson on Baywatch in the eighties. Celebrities took to the comfortable boot and the public followed. Juicy Couture tracksuits were a popular trend among the Hollywood A-list with Paris Hilton, Britney Spears and Eva Longoria seen wearing them.
2007 saw the introduction of tighter dresses at Lanvin and Missoni which led on to the bodycon phase. Floral dresses with bold prints, pressed petals and full blooms were seen atValentino, Peter Jensen, Jean Muir and Oscar de la Renta in the spring/summer season. Along with a revisit of the forties Hollywood glamour silhouette at Dior and Louis Vuitton.
Big knits became popular with chunky scarves, boyfriend cardigans and heritage dressing with tweed fabrics and tartan. Along with an equestrian vibe of quilted coats, sports padded jackets and Barbour jackets becoming an ‘it’ trend.The second half of the noughties also saw aneighties revival with Balmain fore fronting it. The hard shoulder returned along with lycra at Versace, disco styles at Gucci and Dynasty at Marc Jacobs. Boho chic became a fashionable style to emit during the early noughties. Around 2003 – 2005 Helena Christensen and Sienna Millar were seen taking inspiration from the sixties boho vibe and introducing it in a more sexy and glamorous way. Long floaty skirts, cowboy boots, embroidered tops, floral fabrics, baggy cardigans, furry gilets and ‘hobo’ bags were all worn.
All information in italic and images found: History of Fashion. Catwalk Yourself. http://www.catwalkyourself.com/fashion-and-history/
Harpers Bazaar's Most Groundbreaking Catwalk Moments:
http://www.vogue.co.uk/news/2015/02/12/nineties-supermodels-versace-show-naomi-campbell
Versace autumn/winter 1991
When Gianni Versace sent Cindy Crawford, Carla Bruni, Claudia Schiffer, Naomi Campbell, Helena Christensen and Linda Evangelista down the runway in tiny black mini-dresses and thigh-high boots, he effectively put the ‘super’ in supermodel. Although the face of fashion has changed somewhat since then, they were the first to spark a demand for models with personality and spirit, not just a pretty face.
When Gianni Versace sent Cindy Crawford, Carla Bruni, Claudia Schiffer, Naomi Campbell, Helena Christensen and Linda Evangelista down the runway in tiny black mini-dresses and thigh-high boots, he effectively put the ‘super’ in supermodel. Although the face of fashion has changed somewhat since then, they were the first to spark a demand for models with personality and spirit, not just a pretty face.
https://www.pinterest.com/girlofbirthday/grunge/
Perry Ellis spring/summer 1993
If the Perry Ellis spring/summer 1993 show doesn’t immediately ring any bells, that’s probably because it’s more often referred to as ‘Marc Jacobs’ grunge moment’. This daring collection catapulted the as-yet-unknown designer to stardom while simultaneously prompting his dismissal from Perry Ellis. As a result, Jacobs founded his own label and quickly became one of fashion’s most influential figures – now
that’s what you call a comeback.
If the Perry Ellis spring/summer 1993 show doesn’t immediately ring any bells, that’s probably because it’s more often referred to as ‘Marc Jacobs’ grunge moment’. This daring collection catapulted the as-yet-unknown designer to stardom while simultaneously prompting his dismissal from Perry Ellis. As a result, Jacobs founded his own label and quickly became one of fashion’s most influential figures – now
that’s what you call a comeback.
Alexander McQueen spring/summer 1999
From wind tunnels and rain to those controversial Armadillo shoes, Alexander McQueen has never been one to shy away from catwalk theatrics. However, it was the brand’s spring/summer 1999 show, in which robots spray-painted graffiti on to pure white ballgowns, that really pushed the boundaries of what fashion – and a fashion show – could be.
From wind tunnels and rain to those controversial Armadillo shoes, Alexander McQueen has never been one to shy away from catwalk theatrics. However, it was the brand’s spring/summer 1999 show, in which robots spray-painted graffiti on to pure white ballgowns, that really pushed the boundaries of what fashion – and a fashion show – could be.
http://www.zimbio.com/pictures/ljzNaPiN0fp/Fendi+Great+Wall+China+Fashion+Show+Runway/2InEOiNki3C
Fendi at the Great Wall of China, 2008
Never one to settle for anything less than incredible, Karl Lagerfeld flew 500 celebrities, press and buyers across the world in 2008 to attend a Fendi catwalk on the Great Wall of China. The first show of its kind, the collection included an entire mini range created specially for the event, which reportedly cost £10 million to produce. Kate Bosworth said at the time there would be nothing so magical or of such magnitude ever again.
Never one to settle for anything less than incredible, Karl Lagerfeld flew 500 celebrities, press and buyers across the world in 2008 to attend a Fendi catwalk on the Great Wall of China. The first show of its kind, the collection included an entire mini range created specially for the event, which reportedly cost £10 million to produce. Kate Bosworth said at the time there would be nothing so magical or of such magnitude ever again.
http://indtl.com/uncategorized/catwalk/philip-tracey-ss-13/attachment/philip-treacy-x-swarovski-ss13-credit-jason-lloyd-evans-2
Phillip Treacy spring/summer 2013 Philip Treacy’s return to London Fashion Week in 2013 may have featured clothes inspired by Michael Jackson and a soundtrack performed by Lady Gaga, but it was notable for a far more important reason – every single model in the show was black. Nearly 65 years after Dorothea Towles Church first modelled for Christian Dior, the debate over the comparative lack of black and Asian models still rages and, while Treacy refused to comment on his casting decision, it’s clear to see which side he is on.
Descriptions of collections found via http://www.harpersbazaar.co.uk/fashion/fashion-news/news/a31099/fashions-most-groundbreaking-catwalk-moments/. 2016.
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